Travel: Paris, France (Jack White!)

Jack White played an intimate show at La Cigale in Paris, France this past Sunday night. Intimate meaning, it was a small venue. And, with a little bit of coercing some new friends into going with me, I was almost front row for this last-minute, just-announced concert.

The opening band was the Smoke Fairies - two women and a few assorted bandmates. Their sound is melancholic, haunting, and very feminine. It was as if we were transported to the deserted halls of a long forgotten cathedral where the voices of young women echoed off of ancient walls. Very cool music suited better for a chill night. But they played a great set and aptly prepared the crowd for Jack.

check them out here /

Jack White came out on stage in a blue suit, his messy black bob bouncing ecstatically to thunderous drum beats. I could (almost literally) see the veins in his forearms pulsing as he began the notes for the first song of the night - Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground (one of my favorite White Stripes songs). I was surprised and delighted that he played a lot of my favorite White Stripes, Dead Weather, and Raconteurs songs - Cut Like a Buffalo, We Are Going to Be Friends, Top Yourself, Two Against One, Ball and Biscuit...

The energy was electric - the crowd was in awe of this man. It was one of the most respectable, most sane and polite groups of concert-goers. No pushing, no shoving - people moved out of my way so I could see better. I only wish it would have lasted longer.

His bandmates (all male) were equally talented and energetic. He owned the stage and they all worked flawlessly together.

If you have never seen Jack White perform LIVE, then you are missing one very spectacular (dare I say, religious) experience. He is a man of many charms. The way he moves to the music, the way his face becomes distorted with the lyrics - it is pure genius.

I would post a review of his new album, Blunderbuss, but I fear that I am unashamedly a huge Jack White fan, and perhaps my review wouldn't be taken seriously. So, all I can say is, that I have been listening to it on repeat for days on end. It is not "knock you down" amazing the first listen, listening to it is like that first late-night conversation that you have with someone you think you are falling in love with. It starts slow and then you quickly realize you don't want to go to sleep  because you are afraid if you wake up, it will all have been a dream. Happy listening.

La Cigale is located in the 18e arrondissement (in Pigalle) which is the red light district (think: Moulin Rouge). It is also very close to Montmartre and Basilique du Sacré-Cœur.

Before the show we had red wine at a little hole-in-the-wall bar quite close to La Cigale called La Fourmi. The wine was okay (cheap!) but the atmosphere was grungy and raw - very rock'n'roll, very cool. The service was prompt, orderly, and, though the staff wasn't overly polite, they were very accommodating. The bathrooms were horrible, avoid the bathrooms! And then after the show we went back for bread, cheese, and butter - a perfect post-concert meal. I could live on good bread and cheese.

Paris is an interesting city - it is difficult to get away from the tourist spots, but once you do get away, the city grows considerably in charm and character. Don't get me wrong, the city and all its touristy wonders are beautiful - the stone is a clean linen/beige color, the cobblestones are gray and brilliant, the buildings tower and prick blue (or black) skies, the smells of crepes and bread linger like lazy fingers in the air. But I did get to spend some time in an area of the city where I felt like "real" Parisians hang out (Rue Oberkampf) I went to a record shop in the 11e, Fargo, and it was a tiny eclectic shop filled with beautiful concert posters, records, CDs, and secondhand t-shirts. There were quite a few shops in this area that I hope to explore someday.

I did some cooking for the hosts I stayed with - I made them French toast (something they don't eat a lot of - they call it "pain perdu" - lost bread). I also made nachos (I've been missing Mexican food lately) and carrot ginger soup. I think they appreciated my efforts to be a good guest.

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Two days wasn't enough time.